🕐 Reading time: 4 min
Getting into card collecting is exhilarating. And it's also the best way to lose money when you start out without guidance. We'll show you how to get off on the right foot, without getting ripped off.
First: why are you collecting?
Before buying anything, answer this question. There's no wrong answer, but it changes everything:
- For pleasure: you fall for cards you find beautiful, regardless of their market value. Buy what excites you, period.
- For value: you're looking for pieces that hold or increase in value. Here, you need to be more selective.
- Both: the most common and healthiest approach. You enjoy yourself and pay attention to what you buy.
A collector who knows why they're buying almost never gets ripped off.
The number one pitfall: fake cards and "home gradings"
Two scams cause beginners to lose money:
Counterfeits. They are increasingly convincing. Beware of prices that are too good to be true, sellers with no history, and photos that never show the card from multiple angles.
False certifications. Anyone can put a card in plastic and write "10" on it. A grade is only as good as the credibility of the person who assigns it. A slab from a recognized grader (CCC, PSA, BGS, PCA…) is authenticated, sealed, and tamper-proof. A card "graded" by an unknown entity is worth no more than a raw card. Often less.
Raw card or graded card: which to choose when starting out?
Both have their place.
The raw card is perfect for enjoyment, handling, and completing a series. Cheaper, but more fragile and harder to resell at a fair price (the buyer has to trust you on its condition).
The graded card costs more, but you know exactly what you're buying: verified authenticity, noted condition, lifelong protection. For a piece you want to keep or that has value, it's security.
Our advice for beginners: enjoy raw cards for "favorites," and switch to graded once a card truly matters to you. To know when it's worth it, read should you get your card graded.
How to recognize a worthwhile card
Not all cards are created equal. Most common cards, mass-produced, remain at a few cents, graded or not. But this isn't an absolute rule: some common Base Set cards (the very first sets of a series), or reverse holo cards from recent sets, can climb to 5, sometimes 10 € a piece. The catch is that this increase remains rare and difficult to anticipate when starting out. To aim for value, targeting at least ARs is the most straightforward bet.
Our rule at Dojo, and a good benchmark for you: aim for at least AR (Art Rare) cards and above. These are cards with true artistic work, whose rarity justifies protecting them.
All cards have a design, but few are sought after for their art. Two concrete markers to recognize them:
- The size of the illustration. On a common card, the design occupies about half of the card. On special cards (full art, AR, and above), the illustration extends over the entire card.
- The number. Look at the card's number and the total number in the series (the number after the slash). When the number exceeds this total, it's a secret rare card, often the most beautiful and sought after.
And if you buy a raw (ungraded) card, check its condition yourself: corners, edges, centering, surface. Here, no grade protects you: a beautiful card in poor condition loses most of its value. On a slab, no need: the grader has already done this work, and the grade tells you exactly what you're buying.
How to start, concretely
- Set a small starting budget and stick to it. A collection isn't built in a month.
- Choose a universe (Pokémon, One Piece…) rather than spreading yourself thin. You'll learn what's valuable faster.
- Buy from reputable sellers, who show their cards from all angles and explain what they're selling.
- For important pieces, prioritize certified. You'll sleep soundly.
The Dojo Way
Every card you find in a slab at Dojo has first been selected for its interest, then authenticated and graded by an independent grader. That's how you start a collection on solid foundations.
Welcome to the Dojo.